Snow in Minsk
5.30AM is never a great time for having to get out of bed.
Knowing that you have to leave your warm bed and trudge out into the snow in
subzero temperatures, to sit on a ramshackle bus for
hours on your way to the last dictatorship still standing in Europe doesn’t
improve the situation a whole lot. The
bus drove out of Vilnius and into the early morning darkness on its way to the
Belarussian border. As soon as we left Vilnius, the landscape changed from city
to patches of woods and farmland, seperated by stretches of snowy fields. After
about an hour and a half, we appeared to be approaching the border. This
resulted in a flurry of activity among the other passengers who, by the look of
it, were all locals who had been through this routine many times before.
I had
no idea what to expect, so I watched with interest as the rest of the
passengers scuttered out of the bus and into the border patrol office. When we started out at planning this trip, it
occurred to me that entering Belarus requires a visa from the powers that be in
the country. We downloaded forms from the embassy website, completed them, and inserted
our passports and about 200 Euros worth of international money orders into the
registered mail enveloppe. This is one
thing I don’t get. Why do all those countries that are allegedly poor and backwards
make it nearly impossible to enter them? If I was in charge of a poor country,
I would throw every border crossing wide open for every rich Western tourist
who was planning to throw around hard currency like Dollars and Euros to boost
the local economy. As it stands, Belarus holds 63rd position in the
world when it comes to income per head of the population, which is only just
outside the top third of the world, but behind every other European country
except for notoriously poor Moldova(130) and Bulgaria, which follows it in 64th
spot. The embassy in London had informed
us that it would take about a week and a half to process the visa request, so
we waited in patience. After about 2 weeks, we received an enveloppe with all
our paperwork. Our visa request had been rejected because we had used
“Incorrect forms” as the accompanying card informed us. They sent us new forms
which, upon closer inspection, were EXACTLY THE SAME, to the last letter. This
was an early indication on how Soviet bureacracy works. We compared the forms
for about half an hour and could not find any difference. In the end, it dawned
on us that when we had printed off the forms, about 1/8 of an inch of the top
of the frame lining the questions had not been printed out, but that was all we
could find. We sent the forms off again and, 3 days before we were about to
leave, finally received back our passports with the coveted Belarus visa
stickers in them.
And now we were
approaching the border, and we could finally put them to use. When I approached
the guard’s desk, she took out one of those square magnifying glasses that
jewellers and watchmakers use. She inspected my entire passport ID page with
this thing. Just for a moment, I expected her to kick up a shit storm about the
US Border Patrol stamp on one of the first pages, but this was apparently no
problem. She then asked me to present my travel insurance which, I realised
then, was still in my back pack on the bus. So I hurried off back to bus and
returned with my insurance cert. She looked at it for about 0.4 seconds and
waved over a male colleague. And this brings us back, in a roundabout way, to
the start of our story. As mentioned there, the guard told me that this insurance was
not valid in their ‘Territory’, as they put it, and sent us off to the insurance
booth across the street to purchase medical insurance suitable to life in the
harsh territory of Belarus. It wasn’t expensive, only 3 Euros each for the
week, but it just seemed weird to me that they would organise it this way. The
boy working in the booth sat behind a computer (and I use this word in the
broadest way possible) that was manufactured, I would guess, before the Soviet
Union was disbanded. He typed in our information using 1 finger and constantly made mistakes which necessitated him
starting over again. When my form was finally done and he started on Renae’s
papers, I noticed from the corner of my eyes that our busdriver was walking
back to the bus that was parked about 30 yards beyond the border office. I
walked outside to inform him that we were nearly done, but when I reached the
bus, he started to drive off. I ran past the bus and started waving at him,
indicating that he had forgotten 2 paying passengers. When he opened the door, rather than apologising
for his rude mistake, he started shouting at me that we were delaying his
schedule and he had no intention of waiting any longer. This asshole had
clearly learned customer care from a Siberian camp guard, but after a lot of
shouting and delaying, we could finally get aboard the bus with the correct
papers and continue our trip. What a start to the day.
As soon as we passed the general clutter that you find in border areas, like empty freight containers, old buses with wheels missing, and the seemingly never ending line of trucks that you will find at nearly every border crossing east of Munich, the landscape changed noticeably. Where in Lithuania it had been mostly woodland and farms, the scenery on the Belarussian side of the border was one of utter wintery emptiness. There was nothing but snow, at some points blown up to 5 feet high, as far as the eye could see. Once every mile or so, the white nothingness was offset by a clutch of dead birch trees or a lone farm house. This always makes me wonder. Who lives in places like that? When (WHY?)did they decide to go live in a crumbling farm in the middle of fukcing nowhere in a place that is covered in shoulder high snow for most of the year? I can't even begin to understand. For hours we drove through the frozen wasteland. We passed nothing. There was only snow. At one point, I got the idea that it somehow looked familiar, but I couldn't quite put my finger on why it did. I realised later that it looked as if we were driving across Hoth. I expected to see Han Solo riding a Tauntaun any minute. ( if you don't know what Hoth is, you have a severe lack of movie education and you should go watch the Starwars trilogy. Now! Or read this link: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoth )
Belarussians on their way to work
Being rather bored with the snow, I amused myself by reading Bill Bryson's excellent
book "A walk in the woods". In it, he describes his 2000 mile hike
along the Appalachian Trail, a footpath through the wilderness of the
Appalachian mountain range that runs from Northern Georgia to the Canadian
border. Incidentally, Bill was caught in a snow storm himself in the chapter I
was reading while we approached Minsk. After hours of snow, I noticed that the
scenery started to change. We were clearly approaching a city, as the roadside
started to get populated with signs indicating highway exits, gas stations and
other amenities you would expect to find near a sizeable city.
After a while we entered the city proper and the first
building I saw was an enormous apartment block. It was HUGE. It went on for
about a quarter of a mile. And that's the thing that baffles you when you get
to Minsk, the scale. I don't mean the size of the city itself, Minsk has about
1.8 million inhabitants which puts it somewhere halfway between Manchester and
Birmingham, just to give you an idea. No, it's the size of everything in it
that is the amazing thing. They don't build to small scale in Minsk. When we had
checked into our hotel, we went out to explore the city. Being the great
adventurers that we are, we had lunch at TGI Friday's, the reasoning behind
this being that they would have a Wifi signal(they didn't).
After lunch we went
on a walk through the city centre and the size of everything left me completely
amazed. Every building was enormous. Every statue was huge. Official-looking
government buildings routinely took up 2 or 3 entire blocks. The ambitiously
named Grand Palace of The Republic was bigger than an airport terminal.
Every
building was adorned with large Belarussian flags. Most roofs were lined with
statues of statesmen, folklore heroes and other noteworthy characters from
Belarussian history. I had obviously never been to Minsk before, yet
still it looked familiar in a vague way, a persistent spark in the back
of my head saying that I had seen this before, but I couldn't say where
it would have been. We walked onto the huge square on which the picturesque Red
Church is set, faced across the square by another 3 block government building
and then it dawned on me.
Minsk is what the world would look like, if the Nazis had won the war.
It was very impressive. Now before you start accusing me of sympathising with nazi ideas, let me state here that pretty much everything the nazis did was very wrong in every way imaginable, but their architecture was sort of cool. If you don't believe me, type the words "Albert Speer" and "Germania" into Google or Wikipedia and you will see what I mean. To give you a bit of background on this: Albert Speer was Hitler's chief architect. When the 3rd Reich would have won the war, and had overrun Russia in the process, Berlin would be renamed Germania and Albert Speer was assigned the task of rebuilding the city and turning it into the capital of the world, a city consisting of broad boulevards, impressive and huge buildings and large parks, all decorated with grand statues of noteworthy people from German history. This is exactly what Minsk looked like. You could see from the look of the city that it had once been an important city in a vast empire. It would not surprise me at all that an alien civilisation, if they flew their space ship over Europe, would assume Minsk to be the capital of the continent. What a weird, yet fascinating city.
Minsk is what the world would look like, if the Nazis had won the war.
It was very impressive. Now before you start accusing me of sympathising with nazi ideas, let me state here that pretty much everything the nazis did was very wrong in every way imaginable, but their architecture was sort of cool. If you don't believe me, type the words "Albert Speer" and "Germania" into Google or Wikipedia and you will see what I mean. To give you a bit of background on this: Albert Speer was Hitler's chief architect. When the 3rd Reich would have won the war, and had overrun Russia in the process, Berlin would be renamed Germania and Albert Speer was assigned the task of rebuilding the city and turning it into the capital of the world, a city consisting of broad boulevards, impressive and huge buildings and large parks, all decorated with grand statues of noteworthy people from German history. This is exactly what Minsk looked like. You could see from the look of the city that it had once been an important city in a vast empire. It would not surprise me at all that an alien civilisation, if they flew their space ship over Europe, would assume Minsk to be the capital of the continent. What a weird, yet fascinating city.
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